
Last week, the RJC released its first-ever certification system. Independent third parties will audit the group's members for compliance with the RJC's code of ethical, social and environmental practices.
The RJC has been criticized by NGOs and the bloggers at fairjewelry.org, who say the group needs to insure its members have clean supply chains.
Rae admitted it is unlikely that the group will ever require a certified supply chain, but said that the RJC may be able to certify members' supply chains on an individual basis.
"We are not looking at forming our own chain of custody audit system," Rae said. "But what we want to look at over the course of 2010 is: What are the characteristics of those systems that make them credible? Is it possible to certify a credible system like the Wal Mart "Love, Earth" system?"
He said the group will use the Forest Stewardship Council as a model. The group's insignia guarantees that wood came from a well-managed forest.
What the RJC doesn't want to do, Rae said, is force members to buy from each other.
"That raises the anti-trust issue," he said. "We don't want to set up a buying cartel."
But he notes that several big companies are already requiring that suppliers become RJC-certified, including miner BHP.
With the launch of the new system, RJC members, with the exception of miners, now have until the end of 2011 to get their businesses certified by RJC's chosen auditors. Miners have until 2012. The group is now receiving applications from auditors.
"I think most of our members will, in fact, pass," Rae said. "The jewelry industry should be commended for this system. There is nothing like it in any other industry."