Jewelry Design Firm Switches to Fair Trade Suppliers
By JCK Online Staff -- JCK Online, 3/2/2007 11:13:00 AM
Reflective Images, a Santa Fe, N.M.-based jewelry design studio, has ceased doing business with two suppliers, located in Thailand and India, because they do not comply with Fair Trade principals. The firm said that all bracelets and necklace chains will be now imported from a company in Indonesia that adheres to Fair Trade standards.
"Imported handmade chain adds value to our American pieces," said Marc Choyt, president of Reflective Images. "The Indonesian company costs up to 30 percent more than the companies we've dropped, but I believe our customers will support our Fair Trade initiatives."
Fair Trade principals, include:
* Providing free board for employees;
* Wages well above minimum wage standards;
* Clean, environmentally sound, well ventilated working conditions;
* A month of paid vacation, annually;
* Profit sharing; and
* A fund to cover all medical expenses
Choyt admits that not all of his inventory pieces are from Fair Trade suppliers, but he says he is narrowing the gap. Among the issues he says is whether customers would want to purchase jewelry made by poorly treated workers or with materials obtained through environmentally unfriendly mining practices.
"Does the expression of love and commitment symbolized in a ring just extend to our intimate ones, or beyond them, to the greater human family? It takes real courage for someone in the jewelry business to even consider these issues, but there is an even greater danger for those who ignore them."
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Craig, as the person who has visited this factory in Indonesia twice, I say your point is valid and well taken. How do we assure that companies are not green washing by making claims such as the one I have without third party verification?
I think if you visit my blog. www.fairjewelry.org on the subject on fair and ethically sourced jewelry and read up on the issues I have covered, you’ll understand the scope of this problem
TransFair USA, the labeling organization that certifies fair trade, does not want to get involved in the manufacturing of jewelry. They are dipping into mining, but only on a large scale, favoring large players. I could be wrong, but there is not agreement, at least what I’ve heard from the grapevine, with how FLO international is approaching this issue. At any rate, I am certain it will be many years before there is any type of verification. I have put forth repeatedly that it is not adequate to just cover mining issues. Our whole sector needs to be address.
In the meantime, there is talk about a meeting to deal with these issues later in the year sponsored by a respected NGO. I should have something posted on my blog announcing this hopefully within a week or two.
Regarding the factory in Bali, all I can say at this point is that I have personally visited the place twice, but more than that, I am personal friends with the owner who is originally from New Zealand. We spent time together snowed in up at high Himalayan mountain tops. I know the guy’s values. I have seen how he operates and how he lives and the twenty year old car that he drives. He has deep and genuine sympathy for his workers and offers them better benefits than most American companies do their own employees. You can take my word for it, or not. These issues are complex and difficult as we are in the early stage of what I believe will be a huge movement within our industry.
But honestly, the problem is not coming from small players such as myself with just ten employees who are getting involved with this early on or the types of people who I interview on my blog.
All of us who are passionate about these issues are not green washing or fair washing. On the other hand, when you have big corporations rolling out marketing “eco†initiatives or “fair†initiatives, emphasizing one element of a product as green, or tying their product to some celebrity, then it is time to be concerned. This can be done to distract what is taking place in other sectors of their supply chain which may not be so savory. Jewelry media and marketing has distracted the customer for too long away from its sourcing.
That is why I favor full transparency as a basis for fair trade and eco. I have 3000 inventory pieces and I know that I cannot be entirely kosher, but I am certainly moving in the direction as I can. In my upcoming website design, I will be even more honest about what I know and what I don’t. That will at least allow the customer to make a fair decision.
As for the issue of keeping jobs in the US, I totally agree with you on that as well. Fair trade should also include living wages. I live in Santa Fe, NM and we have one of the most progressive stances on this of any city in the country. But even their living wage is far too low, which is why I offer my people a good wage and an excellent benefit program. If you want to learn more about that, you can visit my website, www.celticjewelry.com and read about it for yourself.
The real issue here in the US and abroad is human greed verses fair and equitable exchange. Unfortunately, too many people in the world think that they only way to get ahead is by stepping on others below them or giving them as little as possible to live. That is primarily how business is run.
Marc Choyt - 2007-15-7 13:10:00 EDT -
Fair Trade Jewelry - Cool Idea! I work in the jewelry industry as an independant artist. If I could be sure all the stones I work with were Fair Trade, I know I would feel better aboutit! After years of bloody war in Africa leaving millions dead, much of it paid for with diamond money, it's time for a little fresh air and sanity. If these jokers could see they can get farther with honey rather than guns, we'd all be in a better place.
Mike Hernandez - 2007-9-3 12:05:00 EST -
In response to Mr Warburton's comment, we have travelled to Indonesia and intimately worked with this particular supplier. We have seen first-hand how they operate and how they treat their employees. The meager benefits which have been listed in the article are quite often taken for granted here in America yet are quite welcome and highly prized in other parts of the world. The purpose of Fair Trade is to help those economically challenged people in the developing world help themselves. We fully support all efforts to do so.
Marek Sutherland - 2007-9-3 11:56:00 EST -
I think it's great, myself! If everyone went Fair Trade, it would certainly go a long way towards solving many social and economic problems in the world. Despite the pessimistic comment above, I am a firm believer in the value of Fair Trade.
Mike Biloxi - 2007-9-3 11:42:00 EST -
This is awsome - more of us in the jewelry industry should be commited to fair trade practices.
Ramona Lewis - 2007-6-3 20:27:00 EST
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