AGTA Shows Its Colors

by Staff -- JCK Online, 2/1/2003 2:00:00 AM

Winners of the 2003 American Gem Trade Association Spectrum Award competition will be feted this month at a gala awards ceremony during the AGTA GemFair in Tucson, Ariz. The competition, now in its 19th year, honors outstanding jewelry design incorporating colored gemstones.

The awards are judged in five fashion categories—Evening, Business/Day, Casual, Bridal, and Men's—as well as two other divisions of the competition, Manufacturing Honors and Platinum Honors. The Manufacturing Honors prize is awarded to a design that combines an elegant use of natural colored gemstones with construction techniques that can be used by mainstream manufacturers. The Platinum Honors prize, sponsored by the Platinum Guild International, is awarded to the designer of a piece composed of at least 75% platinum.

Pieces are judged anonymously over the course of several days, with several elimination rounds before final judging. Points are awarded for both technical merit and promotional merit. Technical merit includes effective use of materials, overall beauty and wearability, innovation in design, quality of gem materials, and quality of workmanship. Promotional considerations include a high potential to generate positive publicity for gemstones of natural origin and broad-based consumer appeal. The gemstones themselves are evaluated for overall quality and rarity as well as lapidary technique.

This year's panel of judges included Glen Engelbrecht of G.J. Designs, William Holman of Holman Designs, Alfredo Molina of Molina Fine Jewelers, Tania Riddell of Modern Bride, and Thomas Trozzo of Trozzo. Platinum Honors judges included Jeffrey Matthews, Jeffrey Matthews Design Inc., and Lee Duren of Stuart Moore Gallery.

The AGTA 2003 Cutting Edge Awards also will be presented in Tucson, at a separate ceremony. These awards honor outstanding lapidary work in colored gemstones, in categories including classic gemstone, faceting, carving, combination, and pairs and suites.

Spectrum Award Winners

Cutting Edge - Classic Gemstone Category.First place: Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co., 8.12-ct. Burma origin sapphire cushion-cut with Gubelin certificate. Second place: Ray Zajicek, Equatorian Imports, Inc., 2.82-ct. Colombian emerald (8.7 x 8.5 x 6.5), emerald cut. Third place: Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co., 8.05-ct. heated cushion-cut pink sapphire.

Cutting Edge - Faceting Category.First place: John D. Dyer, Precious Gemstones Co., 27.2-ct. topaz, modified trilliant cut. Second place: David Clay Zava, David Clay Co., 20.96-ct. mint blue-green tourmaline with a triangular checkerboard crown ("Tricheck" cut). Third place: John D. Dyer, Precious Gemstones Co., 9.06-ct. spessartite garnet oval, brilliant oval cut.

Cutting Edge - Carving Category.First place: Glenn Lehrer, Glenn Lehrer Designs, 225.5-ct. chrysocolla chalcedony, free-flowing abstract carving of a flower unfolding in bloom. Second place: Krista McMillan, Dust Devil Mining Co., 69.15-ct. Oregon sunstone, free-form carving of a woman's face. Third place: Krista McMillan, Dust Devil Mining Co., 36.7-ct. free-form red Oregon sunstone.

Cutting Edge - Combination Category.First place: Michael M. Dyber, Ledge Art Studio, natural-color 164.05-ct. aquamarine combining faceting and carving (large flat is table). Second place: Michael M. Dyber, Ledge Art Studio, natural 63.05-ct. Bolivian amethyst (large flat is table). Third place: Christopher Wolfsberg, Colored Creations, "Blue Blazer," 23.46-ct. aquamarine, beryl square concave/flat facet, cut in a concave blazer cut. Honorable Mention: Mark Gronlund, Mark Gronlund, "Erupting Volcano," 26.64-ct. citrine quartz.

Cutting Edge - Pairs & Suites Category.First place: Stephen M. Avery, Stephen M. Avery, suite of seven graduated blue/green tourmalines, "ovob" (as opposed to bar oval) cut, with 17.53-ct. center stone. Second place: David Clay Zava, David Clay Co., suite of pillow-cut tourmaline (three stones, 6.09 cts. t.w.) and spinel (two stones, 5.7 cts. t.w.).

Spectrum - Best of Show. Alan Friedman, Alan Friedman Co., moonstone and diamond necklace set with 38 pear-shaped cabochon moonstones (106.9 cts. t.w.) surrounded by 9.2 cts. t.w. diamonds and accented by a pierced back with ebony inlay. Earrings: 15.03 cts. t.w. moonstone and 1.09 cts. t.w. diamonds.

Spectrum - Best Use of Color. Jeffrey Krasner, Ballerina Gem Co. Inc., fancy colored sapphires arranged in a rainbow format set in a platinum anniversary band; princess-cut sapphires (5.18 cts. t.w.), round sapphires (1.97 cts. t.w.), diamonds (2.09 cts. t.w.).

Spectrum - Bridal Wear Category.First place: Alan Friedman, Alan Friedman Co., 6.156-ct. blue sapphire and diamond ring set in 18k and platinum. Second place: Ziad H. Noshie, Almaza Jewelers, platinum and 18k gold necklace featuring a 17-mm South Sea pearl surrounded by 1.45 cts. t.w. full-cut diamonds. Third place: Jeffrey Krasner, Ballerina Gem Co. Inc., fancy-colored sapphires arranged in a rainbow format set in a platinum anniversary band; princess-cut sapphires (5.18 cts. t.w.), round sapphires (1.97 cts. t.w.), diamonds (2.09 cts. t.w.). Honorable Mention: Burdett A. Milkins, BAM Designs By Burdett, platinum and 18k gold tiara featuring natural .97-ct. Paraìba tourmaline, rainbow sapphires, and diamonds. Manufacturing Honors: Paul Derrickson, Jeweler's Touch, split-shank platinum and 18k yellow gold ring set with a 3.93-ct. spessartite garnet accented with .30-ct. t.w. diamonds.

Spectrum - Business/Day Wear Category.First place: Robert Ackermann, Robert Ackermann Inc., yellow and white gold ear clips featuring 6.13 cts. double-mirror cut rose quartz and 24 diamonds (.78 ct. t.w). Second place: Cathleen Bunt, Cathleen Bunt-Fine Art Jewelry, pearl cross pendant set in 18k and 20k yellow gold, with 1.8-ct. tanzanite, .54-ct. emerald, .08 ct. t.w. natural fancy yellow diamonds, and four green Tahitian pearls. Third place: Rita Hyams, Designs by Rita Hyams, 22k yellow gold ring with a 3.52-ct. bezel-set Malaya garnet, accented with 54 yellow to orange sapphires (2.59 cts. t.w.). Honorable Mention: Beth Neufeld-Shutt, Neufelds Glendora Promenade, 14k yellow gold "Bookworm" pin featuring a .12-ct. ruby and 21 mm x 8.8 mm freshwater pearl. Manufacturing Honors: Aaron H. Furlong, Aaron Henry Designs, 18k yellow gold and platinum earclips featuring 22.44 cts. t.w. spessartite garnets accented with 0.36 ct. t.w. diamonds, rubies, and warm-colored sapphires (1.92 cts. t.w.).

Spectrum - Casual Wear Category.First place: Mark Schneider, Schneider Design Studio, platinum ring featuring a 12.16-ct. blue-green tourmaline and .92 -ct. t.w. diamonds. Second place: Garo Demirjian, Demirjian Jewelry Design, 18k white and yellow gold ring featuring a fancy oval-cut 7.67-ct. tourmaline and 1.37-cts. t.w. diamonds. Third place: Claudia Endler, Claudia Endler Designs, platinum fluted earrings each featuring a 5-ct. red carnelian drop offset with four orange/brown round diamonds (.25-ct. t.w.). Manufacturing Honors: Melanie Williamson, Gemesis Jewelers, 14k yellow gold ring with a .15-ct. t.w. diamond bezel supported by a 2.65-ct. rubellite tourmaline.

Spectrum - Evening Wear Category.First place: Wilfried Kowollik, Silverhorn, 18k red gold and platinum ring with a 4.98-ct. Paraìba tourmaline, .38-ct. t.w. white diamonds and .96-ct. t.w. brown diamonds. Second place: Mark Schneider, Schneider Design Studio, platinum ring featuring a 9.43-ct. trilliant-cut tanzanite and 1 ct. t.w. diamonds. Third place: Holly K. Croft, For Lily, 15-mm South Sea golden pearl earrings with yellow diamond accents set in platinum. Honorable Mention: Ernesto Moreira, Ernesto Moreira Inc., earrings featuring 1.82 cts. t.w. of cascading rubies and two 9.5-mm cultured akoya pearls set in 18k rose gold. Manufacturing Honors: Jack Demerjian, J. Demere Designs, platinum bracelet featuring six 11-mm black Tahitian pearls and 4.8 cts. t.w. diamonds.

Spectrum - Men's Wear Category.First place: Ray Zajicek, Equatorian Imports Inc., platinum and 18k yellow gold ring featuring a 7.54-ct. chrysoberyl cat's eye and two trilliant-cut diamonds (1.15 cts. t.w.). Second place: Khai Le, Charles Koll Jewellers, platinum wedding band set with round Mozambique garnets. Third place: Christo Kiffer, Christo Kiffer Designs, belt buckle in 18k gold with a 4.74-ct. gray tourmaline as the center stone surrounded by small diamonds (.96 ct. t.w.). Honorable Mention: Mark Schneider, Schneider Design Studio, platinum cuff-links with 18k yellow gold accents featuring 19.12-ct. rutilated quartz, 0.22 ct. t.w. tsavorite garnets, .22 ct. t.w. yellow diamonds, and 1.95 ct. t.w. white diamonds. Manufacturing Honors: Khai Le, Charles Koll Jewellers, platinum wedding band set with round Mozambique garnets.

Platinum Honors - Bridal Wear Category. Mark Schneider, Schneider Design Studio, platinum ring featuring a black faceted (acorn-shaped) 11-mm Tahitian pearl and .70 ct. t.w. diamonds; Lee Charles Buckingham, Neiman Marcus, platinum butterfly engagement ring featuring 15.38-ct. butterfly-shaped rhodolite garnet accented with .57 ct. t.w. diamonds. Band is platinum and features 1.31 cts. t.w. diamonds; Alan Friedman, Alan Friedman Co., 6.156-ct. blue sapphire and diamond ring set in 18k and platinum.

Platinum Honors - Business/Day Wear Category. Jack Demerjian, J. Demere Designs, platinum and 18k yellow gold ring featuring 9.5-mm cultured Tahitian pearl accented with .60 ct. t.w. diamonds; Kenneth A. Gehrkens, Gehrkens Fine Jewelry & Design, platinum hand-fabricated ring with hand-drawn tubular rivers featuring a 2.11-ct. magenta sapphire and .74 ct. t.w. diamonds; Joseph C. De Bella, De Bella Fine Gems & Jewelry Arts, platinum ring featuring a 10.78-ct. blue sapphire flanked by two crescent-shaped diamonds (3.03 cts. t.w.) and accented with .24 ct. t.w. sapphires and .47 ct. t.w. diamonds.

Platinum Honors - Casual Wear Category. Apichart Warrachart, isra, platinum and 18k yellow gold pendant with 40.64-ct. fancy cut citrine accented with .25-ct. ruby and .33 ct. t.w. diamond melee; Gary Dulac, Gary Dulac Goldsmith, platinum hand-fabricated ring featuring an 8.93-ct. negative-optic kite-cut amethyst, three round emeralds (0.37 ct. t.w.), and three round brilliant-cut diamonds (0.09 ct. t.w.); Mark Schneider, Schneider Design Studio, platinum ring featuring a 12.16-ct. blue-green tourmaline and .92 ct. t.w. diamonds.

Platinum Honors - Evening Wear Category. Tracy Rose, Gallery Flux, platinum reversible and interchangeable ring featuring a 5.2-ct. green-blue tourmaline, 1.92-ct. tanzanite, 1.88-ct. pink tourmaline and .89 ct. t.w. diamonds; Mark Schneider, Schneider Design Studio, platinum ring featuring a 9.43-ct. trilliant-cut tanzanite and 1 ct. t.w. diamonds; Holly K. Croft, For Lily, 15-mm South Sea golden pearl earrings with yellow diamond accents set in platinum; Khai Le, Charles Koll Jewellers, platinum wedding band set with round Mozambique garnets.

Platinum Honors - Men's Wear Category. Mark Schneider, Schneider Design Studio, platinum cufflinks with 18k yellow gold accents featuring 19.12-cts. rutilated quartz, .22 ct. t.w. tsavorite garnets, .22 ct. t.w. yellow diamonds, and 1.95 cts. t.w. white diamonds.