New Wings for Diamonds

Gary Roskin, G.G., FGA, Senior Editor -- JCK Online, 12/1/2001 2:00:00 AM

You don't have to worry about overall shape appeal with these wings. Papillon Gemme (French for "butterfly gem"), diamond cutters and jewelry manufacturers in Matane, Québec, Canada, has developed a butterfly cut for diamonds.

For those not fresh out of diamond class, the traditional "wings" of a diamond are described as the girdle outline of the stone from the point (or tip, as seen on a pear shape, marquise shape, or heart shape) to the mid-section, or belly, of the diamond. "Flat" or "fat" wings are in the "not preferred" outline category on pears, hearts, and marquises. But with the wings on the new butterfly cut, the terms "fat" and "flat" are irrelevant.

The butterfly cut is not new to colored gem enthusiasts—in fact, cutting various fancy shapes in colored stones is easy. But diamond's hardness and directional grain requires special attention to facet placement and greatly limits designs. Papillon's patented butterfly cut has 39 facets, giving the outside shape the appearance of a butterfly. The pavilion facets have been designed to create the look of fluttering wings when viewed through the table.

Getting a diamond to look like a butterfly was important, but mounting the gem was also a major consideration for facet placement. Note that the four "corners" of the stone have beveled steps, convenient for a four-prong mounting. Papillon offers mounted goods as well as loose butterflies.

For more information about Papillon Gemme and the butterfly cut, call (418) 841-0763, e-mail: papillongemme@globetrotter.net.