Vicenza Fair Sticks to Proven Sellers

By Hedda T. Schupak -- JCK Online, 3/1/1999 2:00:00 AM

The January edition of VicenzaOro I held little news for those seeking the Next Big Trend. While the exhibiting companies certainly offered pretty, salable new pieces and collections, most of these were designed around proven elements such as white gold, diamond pavé, and bezel-set gemstones.

Among the visiting American wholesalers and retailers were Hanna Weiss of H. Weiss Co. in New York, Rachel Silber of Silber?s in Houston, John Green of Lux, Bond & Green in Connecticut, Will Stabler of Michigan-based Jacobson?s, and Susan and Darrell Ross of Ross-Simons in Providence, R.I., and Gearys of Beverly Hills, Calif. They all said they liked various individual pieces or collections but generally expressed disappointment over the lack of any distinct new trend. Most said their buying strategy would consist of ?cherry-picking? selected models.

In other news at the fair, Vicenza Trade Fair Board president Carlo Dolcetta resigned abruptly following a disagreement with several members of the board. A spokesperson for the fair said his departure became effective Feb. 1.

The featured looks popular in Vicenza were:

White gold with diamond pavé. Delicate, airy pieces with scalloped edges and waves of pavé are favored expressions of the look, as are pieces with cutout designs and pavé along the edges.
Mixes of matte white with polished white or polished pink or yellow gold. There seemed to be a small increase in the number of pink-and-white combination pieces offered. Both yellow-and-white combinations and tri-color combinations continue.
White gold set with colored gems, in both pastel and vivid shades.
Microcord necklaces with small diamond solitaires. Also in this minimalist, almost German-style vein were ultra-thin, springy neckwires with single small elements or leather cords with a single, chunky pendant. Often, the pendant was a cross or heart with the cord going through the piece rather than through a bail.
A return of bolder, more substantial link-and-chain necklaces and bracelets, often in yellow gold or yellow with white gold or diamond pavé accents. Some of these were reminiscent of the big looks of the 1980s. By and large, pieces on display were petite, delicate, and minimalist or, conversely, bold and substantial.
Heart, star, flower, and animal motifs. Crosses remain very strong, but the newest ones are square and fashionable, less religious-looking.
Bezel-set cabochon gemstones. Here, a noticeable evolution in design is a shift toward square shapes in place of round or oval.
Rings with one single big gem.
Black and white South Seas pearls.
The use of thin gold wire as a design element: either wrapped tightly around a bangle or many thin wires gathered together into one single clasp.
Lariat and bolo-style necklaces, with woven gold patterns. (Weave patterns were reminiscent of the lanyard necklaces some of us made at summer camp.)
Finally, perhaps the one standout trend-to-watch is how many of the famous Italian jewelry makers have introduced watches. Stay tuned; this trend has potential.